What better way to start another day of Italian design at Milan fashion week than with Marni, whose media frenzy surrounding the Marni for H&M partnership has left the crowds eager to the this season’s catwalk instalment. A luxurious art deco theme ran through the heart of the collection, with Marni’s signature clean lines in blocks of red, grey and black forming the graphic yet slightly twisted overall look that the label is famous for. Sculpted heels on Mary Jane shoes finished the slightly surreal collection, which also featured an equally fairytale Red Riding hood cape, and fur lined coats. A wonderful way to start the day.
The quintessentially Italian duo of Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana presented their collection of decadence, opulence and 19th century aristocracy. Tied black capes, velvet dresses and voluminous embroidered britches (also seen at Emporio Armani, could this be the most unexpected of trends?) stormed the runway, paired with embellished corsets, bejewelled lace petticoat dresses and frilled blouses. Inspired by a Sicilian baroque theme, the collection was every bit as rich and sumptuous as we expected. A truly lavish affair.
#Urban femininity inspired the Italian legend Missoni, with practical, utterly wearable pieces formed in curve hugging shapes and quite possibly the most famous weave in fashion. As seen at many Italian shows this season, stoles and capes were the most elegant way to cover up, whilst sharp pencil dresses created a Seventies vibe. Giant rocks adorned the models’ hands, providing that cool yet glamorous edge to the looks. A traditional show from Missoni, but one that most definitely won over the crowds.
Massimiliano Giornetti at Salvatore Ferragamo gave us a show of two halves. Firm and sharp pieces for day, and fun, lighter pieces for his evening wear. Precise tailoring provided adorable separates that were neither too androgynous nor too girlish, whilst the gypsy-like skirts and dresses gave a fun way to create an evening look. The Italian colour of the season, purple, made a welcome appearance among flattering shades of gold and red, but black was undoubtedly the protagonist of the collection. A gorgeous collection with a lightness of touch that we have yet to see from Milan Fashion Week.
[Related story: Opulent sweetness and fanciful themes at MFW Day Two]
Uma Wang was the less established designer of the day who quite possibly became one of the most popular. Nineties Goth grunge style with a seamless blend of androgyny and sensuality was presented to the crowds, with the final layered and gathered dress coats creating a riot of applause. Black dominated the collection, with punches of pillar box red and smudgy nude breaking the monochrome look. Hoods, draping, deep pockets and long lengths perfectly fused casual grunge with a glamorous edge. A true fashion week success.
The last show of the day brought us Versus with an array of textures we never could have expected. A soundtrack of cascading water and puddles on the runway added a new and exciting dimension to the show. The infamous Brit himself, Christopher Kane crafted the collection, which held a heavy punk theme with slashed dresses, corset laced sleeves and pleated skirts in water-stained patterns. Deep indigo blues and maroon made up the principle palette of the show, and leather accents added to the rock vibe. A world away from his London Fashion Week collection, Kane has given us another winner, blending the two cities and ending the penultimate day of Milan Fashion Week on an intense high.